thanks boner

>> ^lurgee:

thanks boner


I was BONE to please.

hence the name >> ^BoneRemake:

>> ^lurgee:
thanks boner

I was BONE to please.

*quality - (This vid needs a bit more exposure.)

I'll be back with more later.

Boosting this quality contribution up in the Hot Listing - declared quality by Barseps.

In the good old days they had a sturdy timing chain that would last forever.

If you liked content of this video, you will love this game http://www.rockpapershotgun.com/2012/04/16/gearing-up-automation-demo/

One of my first cars was a hand-me-down Toyota Camry that my parents bought close to the first year they were made. I remember that before it became my car, it broke its timing chain causing it to be dead in the water and required a tow to fix. I don't think that caused any collateral damage when it happened, it just died. Seems like that is likely to mean that it wasn't an "interference engine"?

It seems like having a non-"interfering" engine would be a very desirable thing, to limit the potential damage caused by a broken timing belt/chain. Why isn't that standard design? Takes up too much physical space? I remember when the hood of a car used to have a whole lot of cubic area of air/empty space inside, and now it seems like everything is designed to jam pack in there and fill it to the brim. Or is there some other major engineering or design challenge that makes that difficult/impossible?

Not to sound like a viral ad, but that early Toyota Camry served me real well. My family got 220,000 miles out of it before a CV joint died that it wasn't trivial to find a replacement for. We ended up handing it over to a junkyard at that point since we couldn't track down the part. A local Mexican handyman bought it from the junkyard and either found the part or homebrewed some other solution, and for all I know it could well still be running and up into the 300k+ miles.

A lot of people don't realise how important this one belt actually is. Back in the 80's, I had a Cavalier in which the timing belt snapped................... Total cost to me for a re-conditioned engine??? £450!! Take note that this was over TWENTY YEARS ago. It was an expensive excercise that taught me a valuable lesson, from that day to this EVERY time I change cars, the FIRST thjng I do is change the cam (timing) belt without exception............trust me, it's money well spent.

Thanks to @BoneRemake for posting this.

*Doublepromote

Double-Promoting this video back to the front page; last published Saturday, May 12th, 2012 12:09am PDT - doublepromote requested by Barseps.

This is yet another nail in the coffin for the internal combustion engine.

What a tard.

I am in the cylinder head business. This issue and overheating are the top reasons to prompt an engine to be torn down. I have seen some pretty catastrophic engine damage when these things break. We actually have units that come in where the valve hits the pistons, breaks and on the next stroke takes the broken pieces and jams them into the cylinder head.
Don't stretch the mileage out on these things if the book says 60,000 change it at 50-55. Also don't be cheap and just get the belt changed. I know it seems like video is just trying to sell you extra parts but it is good advice to change the belt tensioner and the water pump. Always go for the "timing set" rather than just the belt. It will seem like a lot of money 300-500 bucks to get this done but when you figure the alternative 2000-4000 bucks or maybe even an entirely new engine, that cost will be minimal. I have seen too many people get burned by trying to cut corners and be cheap. Don't let this happen to you.
If you have any questions about this: dovernpc@aol.com

I was driving my '87 VW Scirroco home when it suddenly just shut off. The motor just stopped producing power but made no noises of any type. I rolled to the side of the road. The timing belt had snapped and the motor had proceeded to jam the pistons into the valves. It was totaled.

p.s. my BMW has a timing CHAIN...

When having an expensive repair done:

1) Can an item involved wear out as well, causing almost or as much cost in labour?
2) Can failure of the item cause damage or shorten the lifespan of the item you are repairing?
3) Is it cheap and easy to replace "since you have it apart"?

If you can answer yes to any of these questions, it's a solid, logical idea to replace the other items.

The idler and tensioner pulleys tend to be the reason your timing belt fails before normal wear occurs.
The water pump is usually 3-4 bolts and an O-ring and tend to cost $50-100. The labour involved is IDENTICAL to the timing belt (and actually changing the belt when you change the water pump is a good idea too.)
New accessory belts for your alternator and power steering et al. are cheap.
You would also be smart to have your battery and alternator tested while they are disconnected. Most auto electrical shops will do that for free, just make sure they're reputable.

Lost my '92 Accord EX sedan in 2000 to a snapped timing belt. Totaled the car (which admittedly doesn't take much on an 8-year old vehicle).
My understanding was that the next model year would simply shut down if the timing chain broke, rather than devour itself from the inside like mine.

"The business end of an engine" - I like that phrase. I think I'll work "The business end" of something into conversations soon.

>> ^savethecirclepit:

I am in the cylinder head business. This issue and overheating are the top reasons to prompt an engine to be torn down. I have seen some pretty catastrophic engine damage when these things break. We actually have units that come in where the valve hits the pistons, breaks and on the next stroke takes the broken pieces and jams them into the cylinder head.
Don't stretch the mileage out on these things if the book says 60,000 change it at 50-55. Also don't be cheap and just get the belt changed. I know it seems like video is just trying to sell you extra parts but it is good advice to change the belt tensioner and the water pump. Always go for the "timing set" rather than just the belt. It will seem like a lot of money 300-500 bucks to get this done but when you figure the alternative 2000-4000 bucks or maybe even an entirely new engine, that cost will be minimal. I have seen too many people get burned by trying to cut corners and be cheap. Don't let this happen to you.
If you have any questions about this: dovernpc@aol.com


I prepare cars for the track but in a previous life I was a grease monkey and I can confirm everything ^savethecirclepit wrote.

That and chains stretch over time so even if the book says its a non serviceable item find out when others have had to change it and do the same.

Comment hidden because you are ignoring dag.(show it anyway)

Sounds like this guy works for Rockwell Automations.

Good info there, but still a *commercial

Adding video to channels (Commercial) - requested by SlipperyPete.

>> ^Unsung_Hero:

"The business end of an engine" - I like that phrase. I think I'll work "The business end" of something into conversations soon.


I'm going to use that phrase with my wife!

I added a quart of Timing Belt Restorer to my oil. I save a lot of money and they threw in a pint of blinker fluid for free.

[x] Assorted crud

We just bought a 2 year old Kia Grand Carnival (the Sedona in America), replacing our old 2002 Carnival that had it's engine die after a tiny bloody plastic T joint snapped causing the radiator water to spew onto the road instead of around the engine to cool it. This resulted in an engine that overheated very quickly and a system that was de-pressurised, and apparently not really able to be re-pressurised (don't tell me it could, I don't want to know that it was actually a cheap fix when we're told the engine was cactus... don't want to know we needlessly just paid out a chunk of money on a new car that we didn't need to).

Aaaanyway.

When I was looking into whether the engines in the new Carnivals are any good (apparently they are, Hyundai Lambda engines made in the US of A), I noticed they made a big deal on the wikipedia page about it having a timing CHAIN rather than belt, and wondered why this was a big thing.

Now I know

>> ^spoco2:

We just bought a 2 year old Kia Grand Carnival (the Sedona in America), replacing our old 2002 Carnival that had it's engine die after a tiny bloody plastic T joint snapped causing the radiator water to spew onto the road instead of around the engine to cool it. This resulted in an engine that overheated very quickly and a system that was de-pressurised, and apparently not really able to be re-pressurised (don't tell me it could, I don't want to know that it was actually a cheap fix when we're told the engine was cactus... don't want to know we needlessly just paid out a chunk of money on a new car that we didn't need to).
Aaaanyway.
When I was looking into whether the engines in the new Carnivals are any good (apparently they are, Hyundai Lambda engines made in the US of A), I noticed they made a big deal on the wikipedia page about it having a timing CHAIN rather than belt, and wondered why this was a big thing.
Now I know


Here is me, NOT telling you it was a cheap fix, even if the engine started to seize from overheating after you ignored the "check engine" warning light. I also won't tell you that if it didn't come to a screeching, banging, violent halt, you probably could have "nursed" it home/to mechanic by waiting until it cooled down.

No sir, I REFUSE to tell you any of that.

I will tell you that if the reason it couldn't be pressurized was "a warped cylinder head" then ya, the engine is boned, but I'll avoid saying it would be about $2500 for a motor out of a auto wrecker (junk yard, used parts lot, etc) or even around $300 for a new cylinder head.

>> ^Payback:

>> ^spoco2:
We just bought a 2 year old Kia Grand Carnival (the Sedona in America), replacing our old 2002 Carnival that had it's engine die after a tiny bloody plastic T joint snapped causing the radiator water to spew onto the road instead of around the engine to cool it. This resulted in an engine that overheated very quickly and a system that was de-pressurised, and apparently not really able to be re-pressurised (don't tell me it could, I don't want to know that it was actually a cheap fix when we're told the engine was cactus... don't want to know we needlessly just paid out a chunk of money on a new car that we didn't need to).
Aaaanyway.
When I was looking into whether the engines in the new Carnivals are any good (apparently they are, Hyundai Lambda engines made in the US of A), I noticed they made a big deal on the wikipedia page about it having a timing CHAIN rather than belt, and wondered why this was a big thing.
Now I know <img class="smiley" src="http://cdn.videosift.com/cdm/emoticon/tongue.gif">

Here is me, NOT telling you it was a cheap fix, even if the engine seized from overheating after you ignored the "check engine" warning light. I also won't tell you that if it didn't come to a screeching, banging, violent halt, you probably could have "nursed" it home/to mechanic by waiting until it cooled down.
No sir, I REFUSE to tell you any of that.
I will tell you that if the reason it couldn't be pressurized was "a warped cylinder head" then ya, the engine is boned, but I'll avoid saying it would be about $2500 for a motor out of a auto wrecker (junk yard, used parts lot, etc) or even around $300 for a new cylinder head.


Well that's good to know (sort of). My wife was driving it at the time, and the check engine didn't come on, but it did come to a screeching, banging halt, with steam pouring out of the engine bay. To get an engine from one of these old ones rebuilt is around $4K (Australian), and that's about all the 2002 carnival is worth now, no-one wants to touch them. There's no point getting a 2nd hand engine from anywhere as there's not many to begin with, and they're just not reliable enough to spend the money on anyway.

So it was either a scrap yard for $500, or a trade in for $600. We had to be able to drive it in. Limped it in (still no check engine light on), handed it over, bid them good luck with it. We had told them the engine had blown up, but they were 'well, if you can drive it in, we'll give you $600 for it'. So it's not like we lied to them about the condition of the car. They'll scrap it for parts anyway.

I agree, but I also reserve my right to disagree.

>> ^BoneRemake:

I agree, but I also reserve my right to disagree.
I'm sorry sir, but we do not take reservations on weekdays.