Um, this sure brought on *fear in me while watching this.

Adding video to channels (Fear) - requested by brycewi19.

oh man...
been there and it is terrifying.
it is like being caught in a massive washing machine.
you lose sense of up-down left-right and it becomes a struggle to stay alive without giving in to panic,and YOU do have to fight the waves of panic.

Getting caught inside at mavericks is terrifying. From the most awesome surfing movie ever made, Riding Giants.

The point this guy is at is where I start paddling for the shore.

mavericks is just insanity

The worst is when the breath you're holding in your lungs is running out and after being tossed around you struggle to swim up for air but then realize you're actually swimming downward.

I knew I was about to drown, but I refused to give in and was lucky enough to get my mouth up and out for a quick breath before getting flung back down.

That's one of the nice things about a leash. You can climb/follow it to the surface when you have no idea where up is.

That is why you wear water wings dummy.

As all the fly ladies know, you can't tie me down.

My water wings were in the shop. I only had a pool noodle with me. That was the day I learned a harsh lesson about why it's called a *pool* noodle; those things don't work in deep water, McFly... unless you've got POWER.

Of all the activities I've tried, surfing is the one that just breaks me. I suck at it so much. I would love to be able to surf well, but I don't have the time to dedicate to it.

For me, the worst part of that is not the washing machine. Being mashed and held down is unpleasant, but I'm comfortable enough underwater that it doesn't really bother me.

But it's just so disheartening.

You expend all this energy paddling, and then you get thrown back again and again, and just when you think there's a gap... boom... rogue wave knocks you back again!

Then you finally get out the back and two things will happen:
first the sweetest wave ever comes through just as you're catching your breath and you either skip it from exhaustion or fail to catch it

and then.... nothing for ages. The epic swell that was pounding the crap out of you? Nowhere to be seen and the ocean is flat as.

damn ocean hates me