Surfing - Here's what it feels like to get caught inside.

Damn this brought back memories and not the good ones...
Dude gets caught inside by a 25ft set at Todos Santos and gets tumbled pretty good.

From YT : "I was unfortunate enough to get probably the biggest set of the day on the head. Only 25ft or so, but with the power of the pacific behind her sh sure can throw a punch."
enochsays...

oh man...
been there and it is terrifying.
it is like being caught in a massive washing machine.
you lose sense of up-down left-right and it becomes a struggle to stay alive without giving in to panic,and YOU do have to fight the waves of panic.

lucky760says...

The worst is when the breath you're holding in your lungs is running out and after being tossed around you struggle to swim up for air but then realize you're actually swimming downward.

I knew I was about to drown, but I refused to give in and was lucky enough to get my mouth up and out for a quick breath before getting flung back down.

eric3579says...

That's one of the nice things about a leash. You can climb/follow it to the surface when you have no idea where up is.

lucky760said:

The worst is when the breath you're holding in your lungs is running out and after being tossed around you struggle to swim up for air but then realize you're actually swimming downward.

BoneRemakesays...

That is why you wear water wings dummy.

lucky760said:

The worst is when the breath you're holding in your lungs is running out and after being tossed around you struggle to swim up for air but then realize you're actually swimming downward.

I knew I was about to drown, but I refused to give in and was lucky enough to get my mouth up and out for a quick breath before getting flung back down.

lucky760says...

My water wings were in the shop. I only had a pool noodle with me. That was the day I learned a harsh lesson about why it's called a *pool* noodle; those things don't work in deep water, McFly... unless you've got POWER.

BoneRemakesaid:

That is why you wear water wings dummy.

ChaosEnginesays...

Of all the activities I've tried, surfing is the one that just breaks me. I suck at it so much. I would love to be able to surf well, but I don't have the time to dedicate to it.

For me, the worst part of that is not the washing machine. Being mashed and held down is unpleasant, but I'm comfortable enough underwater that it doesn't really bother me.

But it's just so disheartening.

You expend all this energy paddling, and then you get thrown back again and again, and just when you think there's a gap... boom... rogue wave knocks you back again!

Then you finally get out the back and two things will happen:
first the sweetest wave ever comes through just as you're catching your breath and you either skip it from exhaustion or fail to catch it

and then.... nothing for ages. The epic swell that was pounding the crap out of you? Nowhere to be seen and the ocean is flat as.

damn ocean hates me

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