Too bad none are prosecutable crimes, and no charges were brought under Trump before the statute of limitations ran out. They could have been, but even Trump’s DOJ said it’s all nonsense accusations by untrustworthy individuals with bias, with no evidence whatsoever. Just minor tax evasion (minuscule compared to Trump’s tax evasion charges) and owning a gun while using intoxicants (please say MAGA is for prosecuting this, because that means removing all guns from anyone who has more than two beers in one day or 7 in one week)! 😂
Nothing worth a single day in jail unlike Trump. That really triggers you, don’t it?

Not a good idea to commit thousands of felonies to expose a few old previously admitted to misdemeanors that can’t be prosecuted, don’t you think?

So should he be impeached?


Edit: It’s heating up already…Prosecutions for Greene are coming, she just fucked up so bigly.
My calculations are she’s going to be facing up to 510000 years in Georgia alone for her revenge porn dick pic newsletter she sent directly to children, tens of millions in civil penalties paid to Hunter, and maybe only 3 years in DC…and may be going on the sex offender registry! 😂 Couldn’t happen to a more deserving moron.

the rub of "good guys w/guns" is the "good guys" requirement.

if the argument is "those that can be proven to be responsible, safe, and sane can own guns" then why fear the 'proof' part of the equation?

it's in their motto!

'bad guys' helping 'bad guys' get guns is bad guys, bad guys...whatcha gonna do?

plus

the idea that teachers/school kids can be expected to keep the doors closed - turn on the a/c or the heat up and just see if YOUR home doors are kept shut!

more fantasy from the infanticidally idiots. as if the uncompromising are themselves 'compromised'.




just think...this song is 30 yrs old...and it doesn't raise an eye brow now...

No.

What kind of tolerances do you need to seal the chambers created by those rotors and then what happens to those tolerances from thermal expansion when the engine heats up?

Now ask yourself how you lubricate all of that and then notice the oil literally pouring out of the front seals of that engine.

All of those numbers are made up. Maybe someone did some creative theoretical napkin calculations but those numbers aren't based on anything that engine is doing.

I'm a little skeptical now that I'm older, but a few decades ago I read that the SR-71's wings actually had a small gap that fuel leaked out while at low speed/altitude. Once it got up to speed, the metal heated up, expanded, and closed the gap.

I'm not saying it IS bullshit, it just seems a bit weird I've never heard of it before. There's a point where "with this one weird trick" style videos have to be taken with a skeptical eye. I've been an adult for the entire lifetime of the internet, and with no previous information, I have to wonder if a Bic lighter has enough BTU's to heat up that nut, as the wheel stud and wheel make a decent heat sink.

In reference to your other post, paraffin wax (candle wax) is actually a component in surfboard and ski wax. I just think it's more effective at preventing rust, rather than seeping into it. As it is similar to kerosene, the video might be somewhat correct. I just doubt the Bic lighter part.

From what I've read when you heat up the nut from the bottom and drip/hold the candle on top the heat kind of wicks the wax into the threads, the same way that solder/flux wicks when soldering copper.

Just make sure to clean all the wax off when putting the nut back on or it will vibrate loose.

See, this is why it needs to be shown the rise in joules, and a total energy rise in the entire planetary system, not just some arbitrary surface temperature rise....because people like you (no insult intended here) genuinely see the small relative figure and think...eh its no big deal.

Its a huge deal.

We are losing gigantic chunks of the otherwise permanent ice shelf in south and north arctic areas.

With those gone, we have otherwise what would have been massive mirrors, which reflect light...now acting as big old heating blankets (the water is effectively a black body to sunlight, absorbs it like no other..).

That right there is called a positive feedback loop. You start with something small, and within no time (geologically speaking), its in runaway growth.

The frozen tundra in greenland is home to enormous pockets of trapped methane....not for much longer. (source: http://www.nature.com/ngeo/journal/v8/n1/abs/ngeo2305.html)

Methane's impact on global warming (i.e. energy RETENTION within our planetary weather system) is 25 times greater than an equivalent amount of C02. (source: http://epa.gov/climatechange/ghgemissions/gases/ch4.html).

Further to this video, when you heat up the ocean systems beyond a certain threshold, the natrual pumping systems which circulate warm surface water to the deeper parts of the ocean for cooling, just flat out stop working. (source: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/19895974), leading to the slow heat-death of a vast swath of temperatue sensitive biomes....which, when they are active and growing healthily, actually contribute to c02 depletion (carbon based lifeforms 'use up' carbon to be 'made').

...I could go on, but you see....even just a cursory glance at some of the 'smaller' impacts is pretty compelling enough to consider the phrase 'no big deal' a bit of a misnomer.

Do your research....it is catastrophic, and it is likely to happen in your lifetime (if you are under 30 atm).

Your grandchildren and great grandchildren will be living in a drastically different global environment.

No biggie though, cause we got electric cars coming online in the next 30 years or so

How much extra am i paying for a heat camera and lcd screen, so that i can see my food heating up? I've never had a microwave dilemma needing that kind of equipment.

I.. wouldn't want one so much i'd be willing to pay for the feature. What problem is it solving that makes it worthwhile?

Lasers have a pretty amazing attribute where you can use a wavelength that is only absorbed by certain materials, leaving all other materials entirely untouched by the photons (as they have a very high reflectivity or transmission index for the wavelength).

No idea whats going on with this system, but its possible they are using a colour that is optimised for maximal paint absorption (heats up the paint the most), whilst at the same time maximal metal reflection (doesnt transfer any energy into the metal).

Source: telecom engineer (I work with lasers...)

They do heat up really quick. Amazing engineering

Sigh, I unfortunately fall on the side of "Really, they want 15/hour?"

It's a brain dead job, specifically designed for brain-dead teenagers to come in and work their 5 hours a day, 3 times a week. Yes, a lot of people unfortunately work at fast food joints, but 15 bucks an hour? I used to work in a factory that recycles car parts and plastics, hard labour, and I only made 3 dollars more than some kid would be making flipping burgers. There's warehouses that offer 13.75/hour, again, hard physical labour.

I personally don't think a job that requires you to put fries in a basket and hit a single button that will then drop that basket for you, and raise it up for you once the fries are cooked, OR microwave / heat up a burger patty and assemble a burger truly requires enough time or effort to warrant giving them 15/hour.

Yes, again, I understand some people have fallen upon hard times and need enough money to survive, I feel for them, I've been in that situation. But the way to fix that isn't just to demand more money for what you're getting, it's to enrich yourself to the point where you can do something that DOES warrant a decent wage.

Honestly, the argument that "Oh, McDonalds has record profits, they should be able to pay their workers more" to me, straight out means i'm paying too much money for a damn big mac.

The minimum wage in Ontario is 10.25/hour (9-something for students)
and that, to me, seems like a perfectly reasonable amount.

Essentially my guess is that the bullet can only transfer so much kinetic energy to accelerate the block upwards. Above that threshold it finds other ways of disposing of this energy. Why this threshold/diminishing return might exist idk.

So yeah, I think there must be some change in the efficiency of the transfer of energy in the two examples. Does smacking the bullet right in the centre create more sound? Does the bullet deform/heat up more in the first example because the block simple can't get out of the way fast enough? You'd think that spinning a block would take comparitively little energy compared to all those other inefficiencies. Perhaps if you were to increase the velocity of the bullet you might not see that large of a difference in the height it rises - rather the block would sustain more damage, the slug would pancake more etc etc.

It does seem raher counter-intuitive though. I'd like to know the explanation.

Recycled mix (using old asphalt with other "stuff" that can be put into mix to get rid of it..like rubber tires) doesn't lay as well as new asphalt mix or hold up as well.

Since old mix uses old asphalt, it typically has oil, gasoline, diesel, etc soaked into it. All of these substances degrade/eat asphalt over time. It's why they don't use asphalt around fuel pumps, because all of the constant and pure spillage would eat holes in it. Turns the asphalt gummy...goes right into it and sometimes thru to the sub-grade rock and then soil. Also motorcycle kick stands don't do well on asphalt, contaminated or not..especially on hot days. Asphalt will become pliable on really hot days and a focused direct pressure like a motorcycle kickstand can punch a hole into it that be deep enough to let the bike tip over. Use a wood block or piece of plywood to fix this and spread the pressure.

I used to work in the asphalt business, mostly rolling it. My dad worked in it more substantially than myself working on airport jobs, highways, etc. Many of those jobs won't allow old asphalt to be used in their mix. And they are big enough to force plants to switch over from remixed (old and new) to all new mixes. You'll notice that jobs done with the new mixes hold up much longer, look better, lay better, hold their heat better during the laying process, and come out much smoother looking and less "dirty looking" upon finish. I am guessing at this, but I believe it to be because the asphalt has more tar and less other chemicals and the tar is able to absorb any dirt you might pick up when you move to existing surfaces onto the new asphalt. Where the remix (containing old) has gasoline, etc breaking down the tar and less fresh tar to begin with, so that little bit of dirt you pick up transfers to the remix asphalt like a magnet.

Highways probably won't have as much surface area covered in long term spillage as stop and go traffic where it will be focused at the lights, stop signs, along edge of the streets where people park. But the highway will have big sections of highly contaminated asphalt where semis flip, car wrecks occur, etc. So these same sections if they are remixing it on the go, will end up with a bunch of really bad asphalt on or just after it if they don't throw it out.

And to clarify a few things upon incase people are unfamiliar.

Asphalt plants are usually multi purpose. They are usually a stone quarry with an asphalt plant situated somewhere on site. They filter and crush the stone into piles for sub grade work of various needs. And they draw from these piles to feed the asphalt plant. They do new mix and recycled mix (old mix) which I'll explain below. They also often times have sealer (the black coating you put on parking lots and driveways), I'll explain it below. Roofing tar, regular/asphalt tar, and crack filler..and I'll cover these below as well.

The plants have some human guesswork involved, they have to estimate tonnage and how much tar should be added. They screw up pretty often. It wasn't unheard of for us to get super tarry asphalt mixes where it was like goo coming out of the truck. Or no-tar mixes where it was just slightly black painted rocks. Or mixes where we called them "burnt" where they pumped in their cleaning mixture into the mix and it was breaking down the mixture to help get it out of the hoppers of the plant. These were usually people being trained who hit the wrong button without realizing it.

The plants have to clean the mixtures out of the hopper (where they dump it into the truck) to cycle over to a new mixture they keep in on-site silo looking things that stir and heat it. Which the silos also have to be cleaned at the end of the day or heated all night lest they hardened and stop up the whole thing. They usually stop heating all night as it gets closer to winter season because they don't do enough business to make it worthwhile.

Ok mixtures:

I didn't mention base mix anywhere...but it's why they typically have to switch over to different mixes, because places need base mix instead of finish layer....the layer you see when finished looks less rocky than base and is pliable.

Base mix = larger aggregate rocks, much more rocky. Doesn't have much fine rock in it. It's meant to be something you can quickly lay that will hold up the weight of heavy vehicles right away. Usually this is only used on fresh roadways where they are laying directly over rock sub-grades. It makes it easier to lay the finish layer smoothly, makes for a cleaner looking job by locking the rock and it's dust in...and is cheaper than using all finish. You can almost go from laying base mix to laying finish layer right on top of it with no delay. You can't do this with two layers of finish, because it's too pliable and it has to cool down for the heavy vehicles to drive over it without squishing it out and messing up the layer you just laid.

New mix asphalt = Tar mixture with aggregate like fine almost sand like rocks along with larger rocks to give it stability larger rocks are maybe the size of your pinkie nail at the largest. Tar is mixed throughout, the whole mix is constantly stirred and heated inside the plant, drawn into the hopper and dumped in a truck that pulls underneath. I am told that this mix used to be even better in the past, but now air regulations require them to "inject" their dust from rock crushing into the mixes so again this can cause the mix to be less tarry due to the dust being absorbed and they can completely ruin it by injecting too much.

SCAM ALERT: Look below remix as it pertains to both.

Remix (old and new) asphalt = Very similar to new mix, except they grind up old asphalt that they have sitting on-site in the stone quarry congealing into a big pile depending on it's contamination. This will depend on percentage they are legally required/allowed to put into these mixes. Less of the remix in the mixture, the better it is....less contaminates. Sometimes they even put rubber tires and other rubber products into the mixture. Although they don't do that much here. SOMETIMES it is desirable to have rubber in the mixture like running tracks, where they are springy. This is a special mixture, and it's a massive PITA to lay because it's really gummy and sticks to everything along the process.

SCAM ALERT: They typically do this to older people. But someone will stop and tell you they are working on a big site close, and they are going to have some extra material at the end. Usually you would dump this at the plant or somewhere you have set aside. They want to help you get a new looking driveway. They will lay the asphalt less than an inch thick. It will look really good when they finish. A year later it will be broken apart in most cases. Because they didn't tar, and they laid it too thin. You can lay asphalt thinner if you tar really well....but you want to lay it at least a inch and a half per layer or so. Sometimes you have to lay it thin near man holes and drains to not block water. So don't go crazy on somebody because of this if you see them doing it in certain places. Generally they try to average an inch and a half across a job per layer on finish. Thicker on base mixes since it has larger rocks in it and it has to be at least as thick as the biggest rock in it.

Sealer (the black coating you put on parking lots and driveways) - This is almost like a black paint in some circumstances. Some of it has chemicals, I think creosote, which react to the sunlight and cure it to seal it to the asphalt. Depending on what you buy, you may have to mix water into it to make it suitable for the task. Some come pre-mixed and you just have to stir. Usually you put two coatings on new asphalt, one coat if it's been sealed before. Sealer WILL NOT make your driveway last longer by any noticeable degree. It will make it look dark, and repel chemical spills to some degree. However chemicals will still penetrate as you can't clean up everything that drops. ALSO, sealer makes your driveway much slicker. This is why they don't use sealer on roadways, if they are using some kind of treatment it's something else because sealer fills in all of the fine holes in asphalt and makes it more slippery because of this..especially in the rain. Sealer has to cure for a couple days, you can't drive on it and it can't get wet. So listen to them when they say they don't want to seal it due to weather. Don't let them seal it in the spring or fall. Do it in the summer so it's nice and hot and not much moisture. Sealer looks more brown going down than black. But it cures to black.....it almost looks like chocolate cake mix. Dunno if they taste the same.

If you are sealing your own driveway, do not get it on you. It burns like a mother, I've gotten it on myself and if you don't clean it off right away it will burn you like a really bad sunburn after being exposed to sunlight for awhile. Some people are not bothered by creosote (if this is the correct chemical in sealer)...but better to not find out..because it hurts if you are.

SCAM ALERT: People will seal your driveways with motor oil or even too watered down sealer. They look very similar going down. There is no easy way to tell the difference besides knowing what they smell like. The first rain will turn your motor oil covered driveway into a mess. We have gypsies in the area pretend to be local businesses and pull things like this, it's bad. They disappear at the end of summer and the businesses are left with people pissed off.

Roofing tar - Runnier and less thick than regular tar. It's meant to be pumped onto roofs and run down to fill in holes and places water can get in. If you use this on your driveway, you're pretty much going to end up with a huge mess for years. Because it will continually heat up in the sun and liquify again being tracked into your house over and over and over.

Regular/asphalt tar - Use this, like in the video, along curb sides and between old and new layers to help seal out water and keep the layers sticking together as you put down the new layer. You wouldn't need to tar between a base and finish layer if they were laid a day or two apart because the base layer would heat up again from the finish layer and stick. However if the base layer is older..like a couple weeks or a month. You would probably tar between them. Anything else..you tar between...concrete, old asphalt. The only exception would be sub-grade rock, however sometimes you even tar this, especially if it's in a grade critical location...where you can't have the asphalt humping up even a little. But on a typical driveway, the rock layer has enough jags and spaces that a layer of asphalt will cling to it just fine.

Crack filler - You would use this before sealing your driveway, not after. You can also use it alone to fill in gaps in your driveway and try to seal out water. So it doesn't get into the crack, freeze and blow your driveway up. The best crack filler is rubberized, so it will expand and contract. Plus it also isn't as prone to liquify again in the heat and stick to your car tires and shoes. It has to be heated up substantially to liquify, but I've seen non-rubberized begin to liquify in direct sunlight on a 95+F degree day. I try not to step on the cracks on the really hot days, as I'd rather not find out if it's going to stick to my shoes.

Back in shop class, when I was about, oh, 12, we were doing some metalworks that involved heating things up with a propane torch. Now some kids noticed a thin metal rod will heat up to a glow quite quickly and looks kinda neat if you wave it around fast. The teacher being at his desk at the time (he was a bit of a dick, to be honest), we spent a good while waving glowing hot metal bits around the propane tank.

The valve on the tank must have been faulty, because suddenly the top of the tank was on flames. You wouldn't believe how fast a room full of 12-year-olds evacuates itself when an explosion seems imminent. Some kids went out the door, others went out the window (we were in a basement with a window right at ground level) and some simply hid behind a sturdy desk far away from the flaming tank.

Our teacher wasn't quite disinterested enough not to notice the ruckus and went in to extinguish the fire. First he tried to stamp the flames out with his shoe, managing mainly to re-arrange the patterning of his soles, and then got a fire-extinguishing glove which did the job.

As I said, this teacher was something of an asshole, seeming to get his kicks from berating and belittling the kids he was teaching, but this time what followed was a very sober and concise lesson on fire safety. Everyone was left with the feeling we'd all gotten very lucky, and there was this worldess concensus that it'd really be best for all concerned if no-one said a word about what had happened, ever.

Next he wonders why it's not heating up when he sets it on the counter.