seriously...who uses moisturizing lotion?...

A) Not here in Ozland. Certainly remember seeing it on nutritional information but here's from their site:

https://mcdonalds.com.au/maccas-food/whats-in-it

"85% less trans fat than our previous blend." Certainly not none though

B) Interesting how in the link it talks about mold growth being dependant on it breaking out before loss of moisture in the first few days. The rate it decomposes is still hardly normal though. Especially the fries (mostly because of the sodium content):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfSTjLavkA8

I have mixed feelings regarding cycling enthusiasts. The ones who see the world as a polluted shit-hole because of cars, who dress in biking-gear and ride to work everyday and don't own a car, the SAME people who obsessively recycle their garbage and preach about it to others (as if the world would be a better place if everyone "recycled").

It's THESE insects, OCD, tweakers that I can't stand, self-absorbed, self-righteous gimps on two skinny wheels.

Add to that description the DICKHEADS that preach cycling-over-automobiles who intentionally stick their ass in the center of the road while conducting traffic and talking smack to drivers sharing the road with Professor Suicide??

THOSE motherfuckers, can moisturize my ballsack.

I had an old roommate who died in San Francisco during a Critical Mass ride, the poor fucker got creamed by a truck driver who was ALSO a dickhead, of the opposite persuasion.

I certainly believe that anyone who chooses a bicycle as their only means of transportation who do so in a large cities where the majority of people commute to work from rural areas in cars everyday, have a fucking death wish.
San Fran, NYC, Chicago, Philly?? No problem. Any city where cyclists are not very prevalent on the roadways, yer an idiot plain and simple.

I think she explains that her unmentionables are a little wet, so I'd imagine it has to pull moisture from other parts of her body.

Recycled mix (using old asphalt with other "stuff" that can be put into mix to get rid of it..like rubber tires) doesn't lay as well as new asphalt mix or hold up as well.

Since old mix uses old asphalt, it typically has oil, gasoline, diesel, etc soaked into it. All of these substances degrade/eat asphalt over time. It's why they don't use asphalt around fuel pumps, because all of the constant and pure spillage would eat holes in it. Turns the asphalt gummy...goes right into it and sometimes thru to the sub-grade rock and then soil. Also motorcycle kick stands don't do well on asphalt, contaminated or not..especially on hot days. Asphalt will become pliable on really hot days and a focused direct pressure like a motorcycle kickstand can punch a hole into it that be deep enough to let the bike tip over. Use a wood block or piece of plywood to fix this and spread the pressure.

I used to work in the asphalt business, mostly rolling it. My dad worked in it more substantially than myself working on airport jobs, highways, etc. Many of those jobs won't allow old asphalt to be used in their mix. And they are big enough to force plants to switch over from remixed (old and new) to all new mixes. You'll notice that jobs done with the new mixes hold up much longer, look better, lay better, hold their heat better during the laying process, and come out much smoother looking and less "dirty looking" upon finish. I am guessing at this, but I believe it to be because the asphalt has more tar and less other chemicals and the tar is able to absorb any dirt you might pick up when you move to existing surfaces onto the new asphalt. Where the remix (containing old) has gasoline, etc breaking down the tar and less fresh tar to begin with, so that little bit of dirt you pick up transfers to the remix asphalt like a magnet.

Highways probably won't have as much surface area covered in long term spillage as stop and go traffic where it will be focused at the lights, stop signs, along edge of the streets where people park. But the highway will have big sections of highly contaminated asphalt where semis flip, car wrecks occur, etc. So these same sections if they are remixing it on the go, will end up with a bunch of really bad asphalt on or just after it if they don't throw it out.

And to clarify a few things upon incase people are unfamiliar.

Asphalt plants are usually multi purpose. They are usually a stone quarry with an asphalt plant situated somewhere on site. They filter and crush the stone into piles for sub grade work of various needs. And they draw from these piles to feed the asphalt plant. They do new mix and recycled mix (old mix) which I'll explain below. They also often times have sealer (the black coating you put on parking lots and driveways), I'll explain it below. Roofing tar, regular/asphalt tar, and crack filler..and I'll cover these below as well.

The plants have some human guesswork involved, they have to estimate tonnage and how much tar should be added. They screw up pretty often. It wasn't unheard of for us to get super tarry asphalt mixes where it was like goo coming out of the truck. Or no-tar mixes where it was just slightly black painted rocks. Or mixes where we called them "burnt" where they pumped in their cleaning mixture into the mix and it was breaking down the mixture to help get it out of the hoppers of the plant. These were usually people being trained who hit the wrong button without realizing it.

The plants have to clean the mixtures out of the hopper (where they dump it into the truck) to cycle over to a new mixture they keep in on-site silo looking things that stir and heat it. Which the silos also have to be cleaned at the end of the day or heated all night lest they hardened and stop up the whole thing. They usually stop heating all night as it gets closer to winter season because they don't do enough business to make it worthwhile.

Ok mixtures:

I didn't mention base mix anywhere...but it's why they typically have to switch over to different mixes, because places need base mix instead of finish layer....the layer you see when finished looks less rocky than base and is pliable.

Base mix = larger aggregate rocks, much more rocky. Doesn't have much fine rock in it. It's meant to be something you can quickly lay that will hold up the weight of heavy vehicles right away. Usually this is only used on fresh roadways where they are laying directly over rock sub-grades. It makes it easier to lay the finish layer smoothly, makes for a cleaner looking job by locking the rock and it's dust in...and is cheaper than using all finish. You can almost go from laying base mix to laying finish layer right on top of it with no delay. You can't do this with two layers of finish, because it's too pliable and it has to cool down for the heavy vehicles to drive over it without squishing it out and messing up the layer you just laid.

New mix asphalt = Tar mixture with aggregate like fine almost sand like rocks along with larger rocks to give it stability larger rocks are maybe the size of your pinkie nail at the largest. Tar is mixed throughout, the whole mix is constantly stirred and heated inside the plant, drawn into the hopper and dumped in a truck that pulls underneath. I am told that this mix used to be even better in the past, but now air regulations require them to "inject" their dust from rock crushing into the mixes so again this can cause the mix to be less tarry due to the dust being absorbed and they can completely ruin it by injecting too much.

SCAM ALERT: Look below remix as it pertains to both.

Remix (old and new) asphalt = Very similar to new mix, except they grind up old asphalt that they have sitting on-site in the stone quarry congealing into a big pile depending on it's contamination. This will depend on percentage they are legally required/allowed to put into these mixes. Less of the remix in the mixture, the better it is....less contaminates. Sometimes they even put rubber tires and other rubber products into the mixture. Although they don't do that much here. SOMETIMES it is desirable to have rubber in the mixture like running tracks, where they are springy. This is a special mixture, and it's a massive PITA to lay because it's really gummy and sticks to everything along the process.

SCAM ALERT: They typically do this to older people. But someone will stop and tell you they are working on a big site close, and they are going to have some extra material at the end. Usually you would dump this at the plant or somewhere you have set aside. They want to help you get a new looking driveway. They will lay the asphalt less than an inch thick. It will look really good when they finish. A year later it will be broken apart in most cases. Because they didn't tar, and they laid it too thin. You can lay asphalt thinner if you tar really well....but you want to lay it at least a inch and a half per layer or so. Sometimes you have to lay it thin near man holes and drains to not block water. So don't go crazy on somebody because of this if you see them doing it in certain places. Generally they try to average an inch and a half across a job per layer on finish. Thicker on base mixes since it has larger rocks in it and it has to be at least as thick as the biggest rock in it.

Sealer (the black coating you put on parking lots and driveways) - This is almost like a black paint in some circumstances. Some of it has chemicals, I think creosote, which react to the sunlight and cure it to seal it to the asphalt. Depending on what you buy, you may have to mix water into it to make it suitable for the task. Some come pre-mixed and you just have to stir. Usually you put two coatings on new asphalt, one coat if it's been sealed before. Sealer WILL NOT make your driveway last longer by any noticeable degree. It will make it look dark, and repel chemical spills to some degree. However chemicals will still penetrate as you can't clean up everything that drops. ALSO, sealer makes your driveway much slicker. This is why they don't use sealer on roadways, if they are using some kind of treatment it's something else because sealer fills in all of the fine holes in asphalt and makes it more slippery because of this..especially in the rain. Sealer has to cure for a couple days, you can't drive on it and it can't get wet. So listen to them when they say they don't want to seal it due to weather. Don't let them seal it in the spring or fall. Do it in the summer so it's nice and hot and not much moisture. Sealer looks more brown going down than black. But it cures to black.....it almost looks like chocolate cake mix. Dunno if they taste the same.

If you are sealing your own driveway, do not get it on you. It burns like a mother, I've gotten it on myself and if you don't clean it off right away it will burn you like a really bad sunburn after being exposed to sunlight for awhile. Some people are not bothered by creosote (if this is the correct chemical in sealer)...but better to not find out..because it hurts if you are.

SCAM ALERT: People will seal your driveways with motor oil or even too watered down sealer. They look very similar going down. There is no easy way to tell the difference besides knowing what they smell like. The first rain will turn your motor oil covered driveway into a mess. We have gypsies in the area pretend to be local businesses and pull things like this, it's bad. They disappear at the end of summer and the businesses are left with people pissed off.

Roofing tar - Runnier and less thick than regular tar. It's meant to be pumped onto roofs and run down to fill in holes and places water can get in. If you use this on your driveway, you're pretty much going to end up with a huge mess for years. Because it will continually heat up in the sun and liquify again being tracked into your house over and over and over.

Regular/asphalt tar - Use this, like in the video, along curb sides and between old and new layers to help seal out water and keep the layers sticking together as you put down the new layer. You wouldn't need to tar between a base and finish layer if they were laid a day or two apart because the base layer would heat up again from the finish layer and stick. However if the base layer is older..like a couple weeks or a month. You would probably tar between them. Anything else..you tar between...concrete, old asphalt. The only exception would be sub-grade rock, however sometimes you even tar this, especially if it's in a grade critical location...where you can't have the asphalt humping up even a little. But on a typical driveway, the rock layer has enough jags and spaces that a layer of asphalt will cling to it just fine.

Crack filler - You would use this before sealing your driveway, not after. You can also use it alone to fill in gaps in your driveway and try to seal out water. So it doesn't get into the crack, freeze and blow your driveway up. The best crack filler is rubberized, so it will expand and contract. Plus it also isn't as prone to liquify again in the heat and stick to your car tires and shoes. It has to be heated up substantially to liquify, but I've seen non-rubberized begin to liquify in direct sunlight on a 95+F degree day. I try not to step on the cracks on the really hot days, as I'd rather not find out if it's going to stick to my shoes.

Yeah, I think it was working. Winds can get very strong in Eastern Colorado / Western Kansas; if the wind was blowing hard the other way it might make the jump but as long as it didn't shift that way I bet it was OK.

I agree with @song77 - I think it was just a wheat stubble field. In older days it was pretty standard practice to plow that stubble back into the soil, but the more modern style is to leave it standing to serve to catch snow in the winter and then let that melt and add to the soil moisture (called no-till farming). Fires that burn off stubble can result in insurance claims for damages related to lost potential water collection from that melted snow, but the assessed damages aren't usually very high.

Source: Grew up in a Western Kansas farm family, had an incident where my family was burning tumbleweeds and caused an accidental fire that burned up some stubble in a neighboring field. Our insurance had to pay some damages to the neighbor farm.

Yup, I have fond memories of -45°c to -30°c
I've frozen the moisture in my eyes, glues my nostrils together and grown an icicle beard from my breath and nose many a time.

I remember back in high school when they shut down the schools because it was too cold. knowing this, my boss called and asked if I wanted to work for the day. I said yes, but had no transportation. I walked the 5km into town in -37°c. When I got there, I had icicles on my face, my scarf was frozen solid from breathing through it, and my eyebrows were frozen to my toque. It took me an hour to thaw out before I could even start working. After which, my boss said, I should have just said something and he would have just whipped over and picked my up.
Ah to be young, stupid and stuborn

What do you moisturize with ?

Really surprised that 1) they've held up so well and 2) they haven't been vandalized more. I'm sure some SW fan would love to have that moisture vaporator in his house.

By the way, there's good reason to not make your bed every day. Leaving your bed unmade allows moisture to dissipate, which give mites in your sheets and matress a less hospitable environment to reproduce.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/4181629.stm

>> ^Bruti79:

Funny but fake, I've seen how she does this. Fo' reals ; )



You must have had "behind" the scenes access ... I saw her perform on the opening night of this year's Moisture Festival ... sure looked real to me =oD

>> ^therealblankman:

It might sound odd, but I'm very passionate about shaving. I have tried everything that comes on the market, Fusion, Mach3 or whatever and they all suck donkey balls next to my single blade, double edge safety-razor, badger brush and good shaving soap. For those men who shave, especially black guys, wet-shaving simply can not be beat.
I've worn out 2 bristle brushes in 25 years of shaving. When the last needed to be replaced I treated myself to a really nice Badger hair brush- it was about $50, and is totally worth it. I'm allowed to have nice things. A five dollar bristle brush works just as well, but doesn't feel nearly as nice, nor does it make as nice a lather.
For soap Proraso Ultra-Sensitive is my current favorite. It's pretty inexpensive- a ten dollar tub lasts almost a year, and it is nicely moisturizing. Doesn't have a pretty scent, but that's okay. Not that it doesn't smell nice- it does, just not all pretty-like. I also use the standard Proraso green- it's loaded with Menthol and Eucalyptus so is really cooling on the skin- in the summer on a hot day if you use that stuff and cool water it feels like you're shaving with ice. There are some expensive luxury soaps and creams available and they are absolutely fantastic- An ex once gave me a cake of Geo F. Trumpers Limes, and I cherished that stuff for years- used it only on special occasions. You can also buy the old-standard "Mug" brand shaving soap for about one or two dollars at most drug stores- it works pretty good as well but is a little drying to the face- I keep a bar around and take it camping and backpacking.
The handle I use is a classic vintage "Improved" Gillette 3-piece screw-together safety razor dating from the 1930s, which makes it nearly 80 years old! How's that for economical? New handles are also available at specialty stores and online. The Merkur brand handles are particularly nice- I have one of those even though I still prefer the vintage Gillette. The old Gillette is also gold plated which does nothing to make the shave better but it looks cool.
As for blades, about three or four years ago I bought 400 Derby brand safety blades on Ebay for $50! I use fewer than 2 blades/week which means I've got a lot left, more than a hundred. I've also given away many packages to friends who wanted to try wet-shaving and none of them have gone back to their old (new?) ways.
Two passes gives me a clean and super-close shave, no nicks, no ingrown hairs, no burning, no bumps. Skin feels fantastic and I do very well with the ladies. Speaking of the ladies, most every woman I've been with has been very curious about the whole thing- the morning ritual with the brush, the special soaps etc. Some have even asked if they could try- which can lead to a lot of fun! Think that'll ever come about with your cheap spray-can of nasty foam or gel?
Men-do yourself a favour and throw away those over-priced mediocre multi-blade set-ups and chemical-laden skin-drying cans of shitty foam and shave like a real man. This is one thing your grandfather had right.
http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/688684
5/ns/today-today_weekend_edition/t/how-get-perfect-shave/#.T1aPd_Wt2nA


This was the post of the month. I saw a giant flag raising up behind you Patton style as you belted out this reference quality post.

The man makes a convincing argument!>> ^therealblankman:

It might sound odd, but I'm very passionate about shaving. I have tried everything that comes on the market, Fusion, Mach3 or whatever and they all suck donkey balls next to my single blade, double edge safety-razor, badger brush and good shaving soap. For those men who shave, especially black guys, wet-shaving simply can not be beat.
I've worn out 2 bristle brushes in 25 years of shaving. When the last needed to be replaced I treated myself to a really nice Badger hair brush- it was about $50, and is totally worth it. I'm allowed to have nice things. A five dollar bristle brush works just as well, but doesn't feel nearly as nice, nor does it make as nice a lather.
For soap Proraso Ultra-Sensitive is my current favorite. It's pretty inexpensive- a ten dollar tub lasts almost a year, and it is nicely moisturizing. Doesn't have a pretty scent, but that's okay. Not that it doesn't smell nice- it does, just not all pretty-like. I also use the standard Proraso green- it's loaded with Menthol and Eucalyptus so is really cooling on the skin- in the summer on a hot day if you use that stuff and cool water it feels like you're shaving with ice. There are some expensive luxury soaps and creams available and they are absolutely fantastic- An ex once gave me a cake of Geo F. Trumpers Limes, and I cherished that stuff for years- used it only on special occasions. You can also buy the old-standard "Mug" brand shaving soap for about one or two dollars at most drug stores- it works pretty good as well but is a little drying to the face- I keep a bar around and take it camping and backpacking.
The handle I use is a classic vintage "Improved" Gillette 3-piece screw-together safety razor dating from the 1930s, which makes it nearly 80 years old! How's that for economical? New handles are also available at specialty stores and online. The Merkur brand handles are particularly nice- I have one of those even though I still prefer the vintage Gillette. The old Gillette is also gold plated which does nothing to make the shave better but it looks cool.
As for blades, about three or four years ago I bought 400 Derby brand safety blades on Ebay for $50! I use fewer than 2 blades/week which means I've got a lot left, more than a hundred. I've also given away many packages to friends who wanted to try wet-shaving and none of them have gone back to their old (new?) ways.
Two passes gives me a clean and super-close shave, no nicks, no ingrown hairs, no burning, no bumps. Skin feels fantastic and I do very well with the ladies. Speaking of the ladies, most every woman I've been with has been very curious about the whole thing- the morning ritual with the brush, the special soaps etc. Some have even asked if they could try- which can lead to a lot of fun! Think that'll ever come about with your cheap spray-can of nasty foam or gel?
Men-do yourself a favour and throw away those over-priced mediocre multi-blade set-ups and chemical-laden skin-drying cans of shitty foam and shave like a real man. This is one thing your grandfather had right.
http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/688684
5/ns/today-today_weekend_edition/t/how-get-perfect-shave/#.T1aPd_Wt2nA

It might sound odd, but I'm very passionate about shaving. I have tried everything that comes on the market, Fusion, Mach3 or whatever and they all suck donkey balls next to my single blade, double edge safety-razor, badger brush and good shaving soap. For those men who shave, especially black guys, wet-shaving simply can not be beat.

I've worn out 2 bristle brushes in 25 years of shaving. When the last needed to be replaced I treated myself to a really nice Badger hair brush- it was about $50, and is totally worth it. I'm allowed to have nice things. A five dollar bristle brush works just as well, but doesn't feel nearly as nice, nor does it make as nice a lather.

For soap Proraso Ultra-Sensitive is my current favorite. It's pretty inexpensive- a ten dollar tub lasts almost a year, and it is nicely moisturizing. Doesn't have a pretty scent, but that's okay. Not that it doesn't smell nice- it does, just not all pretty-like. I also use the standard Proraso green- it's loaded with Menthol and Eucalyptus so is really cooling on the skin- in the summer on a hot day if you use that stuff and cool water it feels like you're shaving with ice. There are some expensive luxury soaps and creams available and they are absolutely fantastic- An ex once gave me a cake of Geo F. Trumpers Limes, and I cherished that stuff for years- used it only on special occasions. You can also buy the old-standard "Mug" brand shaving soap for about one or two dollars at most drug stores- it works pretty good as well but is a little drying to the face- I keep a bar around and take it camping and backpacking.

The handle I use is a classic vintage "Improved" Gillette 3-piece screw-together safety razor dating from the 1930s, which makes it nearly 80 years old! How's that for economical? New handles are also available at specialty stores and online. The Merkur brand handles are particularly nice- I have one of those even though I still prefer the vintage Gillette. The old Gillette is also gold plated which does nothing to make the shave better but it looks cool.

As for blades, about three or four years ago I bought 400 Derby brand safety blades on Ebay for $50! I use fewer than 2 blades/week which means I've got a lot left, more than a hundred. I've also given away many packages to friends who wanted to try wet-shaving and none of them have gone back to their old (new?) ways.

Two passes gives me a clean and super-close shave, no nicks, no ingrown hairs, no burning, no bumps. Skin feels fantastic and I do very well with the ladies. Speaking of the ladies, most every woman I've been with has been very curious about the whole thing- the morning ritual with the brush, the special soaps etc. Some have even asked if they could try- which can lead to a lot of fun! Think that'll ever come about with your cheap spray-can of nasty foam or gel?

Men-do yourself a favour and throw away those over-priced mediocre multi-blade set-ups and chemical-laden skin-drying cans of shitty foam and shave like a real man. This is one thing your grandfather had right.

http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/6886845/ns/today-today_weekend_edition/t/how-get-perfect-shave/#.T1aPd_Wt2nA

He made many common mistakes.

1. If you plan on putting salt on a steak, put it on just before that side takes heat otherwise it drys out the steak.

2. Never poke or prod or constantly flip a steak, again it drys out. 1 side down, the other side down. Done.

3. Always rest you steak in a preheated over (45-100C) on a plate, ideally with a grill, under some foil (or what you have). This keeps it warm, while letting it drain, yet retains the moisture you want. Its added advantage is you can leave it there for upto 30minutes (depending on the temp) which means you dont have to rush things.

4. Rosemary is about the worst thing to put on beef. Its like poison it is!

5. Practice, as he mentions getting the timing down for steak can be a bit tricky to start with, but once you have a decent idea even the cheapest crap from the supermarket can be made more than passable.