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Never turn your back on the ocean

submitted by Mordhaus

6 years 10 months 3 weeks ago

1 Comment

Diogenes says...

heh heh, this guy's having a laugh...

how could it be unexpected?? the sets come in at pretty well-timed intervals, the backwash for such a wave would be pulling backwards (hard) on his waist and thighs, and he'd have heard it

i grew up about a five-minute drive from sandy beach on oahu, and had my dad throwing me into the shorebreak from about the age of seven...laughing his ass off, while i'd stagger out of the surf half-drowned and with my sand-filled trunks around my ankles

here are some cool photos of the place by an old college buddy of mine:

http://www.beachboyphotography.com/Surf/My-Smug-Mug/i-gHjVj6T