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6 1-finger pull-ups. How Norways best climber works out

1 decade 2 years 6 months 1 week ago

Youtube description: Norwegian climber Magnus Midtbø has climbed a 9b route as one of few in the world. This video shows his extreme way of training in Oslo, Norway.

Translation:

1st clip
-"I just call it a one-finger pull-up, You feel that your'e using your entire body. Its a nice exercise"

2nd clip
Well, its just double-catching, but instead of maintaining grip on the top grip, I just hit it and go back down. I feel like I'm getting lots of "explosive strength" from that excercise. Climbing is often slow, but if you can climb some parts fast, you can save time and efforts, so this gives me that explosive strength

1:00

This is just "locking" with one arm, and I let myself down with one arm with an extra weight [in the other arm] and then you'll have to brake your own weight. Now, I can do this with up to 20 kg in the other arm. Its more demanding to go down than to pull yourself up, if you brake all the way and do it controlled

1:40
I Jump with my arms, so that both arms release and have no contact with the handles for each jump. Its explosive strength again, plus I let myself down, so its a combination in a way, your bodyweight comes down, and you need to use your arms as brakes

You dont really need steel (the weights) , because when I let myself go(and catch again), its like a double bodyweight because your body is coming down.

Sometimes, when I try an excercise or a new route, or a new move that I've never tried before, that seems impossible, and I keep at it until I'm all worn out, I can rest for two days, and during that time, its like my body has remembered and prepared for the moves, and when I go back to do it I feel that its suddenly easy. Its stuff like that that you discover as a climber