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charliem says...

You can afford...being the prime question here.
Most cars these days (read: not performance cars) are made on the cheap.
Forged connecting rods, and billet valves / cam shafts / high tensile head bolts are not cheap, therfore they dont go into the vast majority of modern engines.

Putting a turbo on your engine alone would vastly increase compression ratios, stressing just about every internal part in the car. The poverty pack econo-cars can not handle any more than about 4-6lb's of boost before things start heating up, warping, and shaking themselves apart violently.

Cost to get things up to spec?

erm....well a good set of H beam forged con-rods can cost you anywhere from 600 upwards (generally upwards...a lot upwards), and thats just the part, not including installation. Getting the valves reworked, vavle springs, cam shaft....thats ~2k+ if youre doing it on the cheap.

Then you need an intercooler to take the heat out of the intake air (as the turbo compresses intake air, and therfore heats it up) so as to keep the economy levels up....and piping to go with it, your looking at another 1k at least.

Then you need an ECU mod, piggy back if you can get away with it, around the 1k figure, otherwise a full standalone can cost upwards of 1.5k.

Then you need to program and tune, upwards again of 1.5k.

To turbo a non-turbo economy engine povery-pack car, you are looking at LEAST 5k+, and thats doing it on mega budget, you wont get any reliability or safety out of it.

Before you even get to put the turbo on, which itself is about 300-1.5k depending on what turbine you purchase, you also need a turbo manifold to redirect all of the exhaust gas into a turbo, and have an outlet pipe that allows waste-gate dumps into your exhaust. So you also need to get your cat-back system redone too, which is about 700-1500 to get it done right.

Doing it right? Start counting from 10k....and keep going.

Doing it right would be to upgrade the breaks (bigger discs, bigger calipers, bigger master cylinder), the suspension (coilovers), and doing some serious chassis strengthening to take the increased loads (front/rear sway bar upgrades, front/rear strut tower bars etc..)

Its not cheap unfortunately

chingalera said:

Q: What's the best turbocharger on the market available in a car you can afford?

How a Turbocharger Works

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charliem says...

Nyquist theorem at work.

Guys frame rate might actually be quite good...yet camera only captures at a certain resolution (in the FPS sense). Highly doubt it is >2x the FR of the laptop...hence, alias image.......looks like terrible FR on his laptop.

Similar phenomenon creates the 'floating helicopter' videos, where choppers blades appear to stand still, yet they are flying...

oileanach (Member Profile)

charliem says...

In reply to this comment by oileanach:
This is a relatively new pedestrian bridge in London, and the bridge was closed and modified to eliminate the problem. Note that wobbling isn't the same as a structural failure. It's quite possible that it would wobble for years with no catastrophic failure, or that it would go out of control and tear itself apart. Either the builders didn't feel lucky, or they got tired of wiping up all the vomit.

While charliem is correct that you need force applied at a resonant frequency (similar to the way pumping one's legs at the proper moment allows one to make a swing go higher, but pumping at a different moment has the opposite effect), it's interesting that in this case this lateral wobble itself actually encourages people to shift their weight, thereby exacerbating the problem.


That, my good man, is called a positive feedback system.
Just like in lectures when the dude at the front is trying to talk over everyone else, and everyone else in turn is trying to talk over him, shit just gets louder and louder and louder etc. till finally its no point anymore.

Ohh yeah, im slightlyloldrunk atm

MarineGunrock (Member Profile)



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