Sasha DiGiulian, first woman to climb "Pure Imagination"

"On October 15th 2011, Adidas team athlete, Sasha DiGiulian became the first American women to climb the grade 9a (5.14d) with her historic ascent of "Pure Imagination" in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. Keith Ladzinski and Andy Mann (Three Strings Media) were there to capture her efforts and tell her story." - YouTube
Asmosays...

>> ^fissionchips:

>> ^Asmo:
I wonder if anyone has ever been insane enough to freeclimb that... = \

What she did is termed freeclimbing, ie. not using anything other than your limbs in contact with the rock to get up. You meant soloing, ie. no rope.


Ah k, thanks for the clarification. =)

I wonder if anyone's been insane enough to solo that... ; )

kevingrrsays...

No one is insane enough to try to free solo that - yet - maybe never.


Even for the world's strongest climbers 5.14d is going to involve moves that they have a low percentage chance of making. The exception being Adam Ondra who this year on-sited (climbed first time, no beta) several 14c's.

Still I can't see even someone at his level attempting a free solo like this anytime soon.

To put it in perspective Alex Honnold who is getting ALOT of press for free soloing typically is climbing very far below his max. That is - he solo's 5.12 routes but is a 5.14+ climber.

-Kevin

Jinxsays...

>> ^kevingrr:

No one is insane enough to try to free solo that - yet - maybe never.
Even for the world's strongest climbers 5.14d is going to involve moves that they have a low percentage chance of making. The exception being Adam Ondra who this year on-sited (climbed first time, no beta) several 14c's.
Still I can't see even someone at his level attempting a free solo like this anytime soon.
To put it in perspective Alex Honnold who is getting ALOT of press for free soloing typically is climbing very far below his max. That is - he solo's 5.12 routes but is a 5.14+ climber.
-Kevin

Care to explain the rankings?

Higher is hard presumably, but what do the letters/numbers after the decimal mean?

kevingrrsays...

In the USA for roped climbing most climbers rate the difficulty with the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS).

First to explain the five in a "5.14d" understand the below:

Class 1: Walking with a low chance of injury.
Class 2: Simple scrambling, with the possibility of occasional use of the hands. Little potential danger is encountered.
Class 3: Scrambling with increased exposure. A rope can be carried but is usually not required. Falls are not always fatal.
Class 4: Simple climbing, with exposure. A rope is often used. Natural protection can be easily found. Falls may well be fatal.
Class 5: Technical free climbing involving rope, belaying, and other protection hardware for safety. Un-roped falls can result in severe injury or death.


So that explains the "5" in a 5.14d

Now 5.1-5.9 with each .1 you have another level of difficulty. From 5.10-5.15 you have 5.10a,5.10b,5.10c,5.10d and so on. Each letter change represents a full level or degree of difficulty.

Thus the difference between a 5.14a and a 5.14d is the same difference between a 5.6 and a 5.10a - or four levels of difficulty. While this may seem subjective climbers usually come to a consensus regarding the grade of a route over time.

Most people I would consider in reasonable shape can climb 5.6-5.8 in the first few times they climb. In contrast I have been climbing for about sixteen years and I climb about 5.13a (with many many attempts!).

Pure imagination may cater to Sasha's particular climbing style - thin crimpy moves. She is amazingly strong.


That said I have been to the base of this route and am amazed ANYONE is able to climb it.

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