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(youtube) Through showing how a turbocharger works, this video explains why turbocharging is an effective engine boosting technology that helps improve fuel efficienecy without compromising on engine power.
charliemsays...

You can afford...being the prime question here.
Most cars these days (read: not performance cars) are made on the cheap.
Forged connecting rods, and billet valves / cam shafts / high tensile head bolts are not cheap, therfore they dont go into the vast majority of modern engines.

Putting a turbo on your engine alone would vastly increase compression ratios, stressing just about every internal part in the car. The poverty pack econo-cars can not handle any more than about 4-6lb's of boost before things start heating up, warping, and shaking themselves apart violently.

Cost to get things up to spec?

erm....well a good set of H beam forged con-rods can cost you anywhere from 600 upwards (generally upwards...a lot upwards), and thats just the part, not including installation. Getting the valves reworked, vavle springs, cam shaft....thats ~2k+ if youre doing it on the cheap.

Then you need an intercooler to take the heat out of the intake air (as the turbo compresses intake air, and therfore heats it up) so as to keep the economy levels up....and piping to go with it, your looking at another 1k at least.

Then you need an ECU mod, piggy back if you can get away with it, around the 1k figure, otherwise a full standalone can cost upwards of 1.5k.

Then you need to program and tune, upwards again of 1.5k.

To turbo a non-turbo economy engine povery-pack car, you are looking at LEAST 5k+, and thats doing it on mega budget, you wont get any reliability or safety out of it.

Before you even get to put the turbo on, which itself is about 300-1.5k depending on what turbine you purchase, you also need a turbo manifold to redirect all of the exhaust gas into a turbo, and have an outlet pipe that allows waste-gate dumps into your exhaust. So you also need to get your cat-back system redone too, which is about 700-1500 to get it done right.

Doing it right? Start counting from 10k....and keep going.

Doing it right would be to upgrade the breaks (bigger discs, bigger calipers, bigger master cylinder), the suspension (coilovers), and doing some serious chassis strengthening to take the increased loads (front/rear sway bar upgrades, front/rear strut tower bars etc..)

Its not cheap unfortunately

chingalerasaid:

Q: What's the best turbocharger on the market available in a car you can afford?

braschlosansays...

Consumer reports are just trolling for more "viewers"
Under vacuum (cruising low loads) a 2 liter turbo with a possible peak HP of say 220 in factory tune will get significantly better gas mileage than a 3 liter 220hp normally aspirated engine under the same load.
Consumer reports doesn't seem to understand basic science. If the engine moves an extra 50% more air (2 vs 3 liter) and it must maintain the correct fuel ratio then the larger engine HAS to use more fuel. You can't lean out under cruising either or the exhaust temperatures go up too high and it will melt the heads/valves.

Don't believe these goofballs. I speak from significant experience.

coolhundsays...

Not quite right. In normal operation a turbo charger saves fuel, but under wide open throttle and general fast driving conditions, it uses much more fuel than NA engines with similar power.

Also a supercharger works similar, but its not propelled by exhaust gases, but directly by the engines crank shaft (over a belt).

mxxconsays...

Proof that you have that experience and not just blowing hot air?

braschlosansaid:

Consumer reports are just trolling for more "viewers"
Under vacuum (cruising low loads) a 2 liter turbo with a possible peak HP of say 220 in factory tune will get significantly better gas mileage than a 3 liter 220hp normally aspirated engine under the same load.
Consumer reports doesn't seem to understand basic science. If the engine moves an extra 50% more air (2 vs 3 liter) and it must maintain the correct fuel ratio then the larger engine HAS to use more fuel. You can't lean out under cruising either or the exhaust temperatures go up too high and it will melt the heads/valves.

Don't believe these goofballs. I speak from significant experience.

siftbotsays...

This video has been declared non-functional; embed code must be fixed within 2 days or it will be sent to the dead pool - declared dead by blackfox42.

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